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Venice, Italy travel guide: The secret Venice tourists don’t know about

There’s a distant clop of feet on stone, a beat that’s growing more insistent, a sound that’s bouncing off brightly-coloured walls and soaring over tiled rooftops as it gets louder, as its source nears. Here in Burano the streets are ghost-town empty this morning, it’s an island at peace but for the urgent thud of those approaching steps.

The clop gets louder, and louder, and then suddenly a young man in trousers and a polo shirt, messenger bag slung over his shoulder, rounds a corner of a narrow alleyway and almost clatters into me as he sprints past, the sound of his feet on stone pavers…

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