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Ancient wonders and modern luxuries on Greece’s most enigmatic island

The security guard opens the iron gate, offering a smile as she beckons us inside. We have been given permission to glimpse hidden treasure, a jewel of ancient Corfu currently locked away from public gaze. We turn a corner and there it is: the colossal pediment from the Temple of Artemis, unearthed just a mile from the Archaeological Museum where it now resides. The stone Gorgon at its centre is both magnificent and monstrous.

I am here with my daughter Annis, a Classics student, whose eyes sparkle before the giant Medusa chiselled six centuries before the birth of Christ. “People…

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